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Alexander Roberts

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Israel: A tale of two cities

January 1, 2020

Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv is a relatively new city, founded in 1909 as a suburb of the ancient city of Jaffa. It was named after the Hebrew phrase meaning "Hill of Spring." Early on, Tel Aviv was a small, agricultural-based community with a population of around 2,000 people.

In the 1920s and 1930s, Tel Aviv began to grow rapidly and became a major center of Jewish culture and social life in Palestine. During this time, many beautiful buildings were constructed in the Bauhaus style, which led to the city being designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003.

During World War II, Tel Aviv was a major center of Jewish resistance against the British Mandate. After the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948, Tel Aviv became the country's commercial and cultural capital, a role it still holds today.

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Today, Tel Aviv is a cosmopolitan city with a vibrant arts and culture scene, known for its beaches, nightlife, and high-tech industry. It has a population of over 400,000 people and is one of the most dynamic and exciting cities in the Middle East.

Tel Aviv is also home to some of the world's most famous architectural landmarks, including the White City, which features hundreds of Bauhaus-style buildings that have been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Visitors to Tel Aviv can enjoy a wide variety of activities, including visiting museums, exploring the city's trendy neighborhoods, and trying some of the delicious local cuisine. A personal favourite is Night Kitchen, which now has outposts in Berlin and Amsterdam.

Tel Aviv street scenes. Shot on Kodak Portra 400 @400 exposing for highlights, standard C41 processing, scanned using Plustek OpticFilm 8200i with manual exposure, contrast, and colour adjustments (mainly to remove magenta cast). Shot using Voigtlander R4A and Voigtlander 35mm f/2.


In between

The coastal area between Tel Aviv and Haifa is a popular destination for tourists due to its beautiful beaches, scenic views, and vibrant nightlife. It's important to note that the beaches in Israel are often gender-segregated, with separate sections for men and women.

Some popular beaches in the area include:

  • Herzliya Beach: Located in the upscale town of Herzliya, this beach is known for its clear water and lively atmosphere.

  • Netanya Beach: This long stretch of beach is perfect for families, with plenty of activities for children and adults alike.

  • Caesarea Beach: This beach is located near the ancient Roman city of Caesarea and offers stunning views of ancient ruins and the Mediterranean Sea.

In addition to the beaches, the area is home to many restaurants, bars, and nightclubs that cater to tourists. If you're interested in exploring the local culture, be sure to check out some of the nearby historical sites and museums, such as the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv or the Haifa Museum of Art.

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Above: Caesarea Beach Hofsonit with view to Orot Rabin coal-fired power plant. Fisherman on Caesarea Beach Hofsonit. Shot on Kodak Portra 400 @400 exposing for highlights, standard C41 processing, scanned using Plustek OpticFilm 8200i with manual exposure, contrast, and colour adjustments (mainly to remove magenta cast). B&W conversion and low saturation/low contrast conversion produced in Capture One. Shot using Voigtlander R4A and Voigtlander 35mm f/2.


Haifa

Haifa is a beautiful city located in northern Israel on the Mediterranean coast. It is the third-largest city in the country and one of the most diverse. Haifa is known for its mix of cultures, religions, and languages, including Jewish, Muslim, and Christian communities.

The city has a rich history and is home to many historical and religious sites, including the Bahai Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the Stella Maris Monastery. In addition to these cultural attractions, Haifa also has a lively arts scene, with numerous galleries, museums, and theaters, and is also a major center for technology and innovation. The city is well-known for its picturesque landscapes, including the Carmel Mountain range, which offers breathtaking views of the city and the sea.

Overall, Haifa is a vibrant and exciting city that offers something for everyone, whether you're interested in culture, history, technology, or simply enjoying beautiful scenery.

Haifa was first mentioned in written records as early as the 3rd century BCE, when it was known as a trading center for the Phoenician people. Over the centuries, it has been ruled by various empires including the Romans, Byzantines, Crusaders, Mamluks, Ottomans, and the British.

Haifa played an important role in the development of modern Israel. In the late 19th century, Jewish immigrants began settling in the area and establishing agricultural communities. After the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948, Haifa became a major industrial and commercial center, with a thriving port and a booming economy.

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While Haifa may not be as well-known for surfing as some other locations, there are still several spots where you can catch some waves - one such spot is Dado Beach, which is located near the city center and has good waves for both beginners and more experienced surfers. Another popular spot - pictured above - is the Bat Galim Beach, which is known for its consistent waves and is a great place to surf during the winter months when the waves are at their best.


Before leaving you with some final views over the sea and city from Mount Carmel National Park, some suggestions for foodies and coffee snobs. For the best takeaway falafel in town (probably) try Michelle Falafel, for coffee and a relaxed brunch try Millhouse Cafe, and for delicious ceviche and creative dishes head to Lux 13 on Ha-Namal. Enjoy!

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Please note, these travel guides contain my own original photography, please do not reproduce without crediting and prior consent.

In Travel Tags Travel, Middle-East, Israel, Tel Aviv, Haifa
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